Iris Van Herpen's exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum, 'Sculpting the Senses', is a captivating exploration of the designer's unique approach to couture. Her work transcends the boundaries of fashion, delving into the realms of science, nature, and the human experience. This article delves into the exhibition, offering a critical analysis of Van Herpen's innovative techniques and the profound impact of her creations.
A Journey Through the Microscopic and Macroscopic
The exhibition takes visitors on a journey, beginning with water, the 'origin of life' as Van Herpen describes it. This opening sets the tone for the exploration of the microscopic and macroscopic worlds, where Van Herpen finds her inspiration. The sequence of galleries, moving from cellular life to marine structures, anatomy, consciousness, and planetary scale, creates a sense of expansion and a loose rhythm. This progression highlights the designer's ability to connect the smallest elements of nature with the grandest, offering a unique perspective on design.
Couture as a State of Attention
What makes Van Herpen's work truly fascinating is her process. She begins with material, before even considering silhouette or movement. This approach allows her garments to feel grown from the material's behavior, with forms emerging through bending, layering, cutting, stitching, and digital translation. The exhibition showcases this process, revealing the intense physicality behind the seemingly weightless silhouettes. The presentation of over 140 haute couture creations alongside contemporary art, design objects, scientific artifacts, and natural history specimens further emphasizes the designer's unique vision.
Handwork and Time
Van Herpen's process brings together older couture techniques and digital tools, creating a dialogue that gives couture a sense of continuation. She views handwork as a meditative state, where time slows down and the mind becomes clearer. This is evident in the surfaces of her pieces, which carry the precision of scientific imaging and the sensitivity of couture. The exhibition highlights the importance of handwork in her creations, showcasing the discipline and attention required to achieve the softness and intricacy of her designs.
Dreaming as a Design Tool
Van Herpen's interest in altered perception is another fascinating aspect of her work. She explores meditation, lucid dreaming, hypnosis, and synesthesia, using these experiences as practical design tools. Her garments often begin with interior experiences, such as a sound seen as a pattern or a dream remembered as movement. This gives her work a particular intimacy, as the garments are born from the designer's own perceptions and interpretations.
From Sketch to File to Garment
The technical path behind Van Herpen's complex patterning is another compelling aspect of the exhibition. Her studio begins with a physical, full-scale sketch on a base dress, which is then translated into computer files. This process allows for digital adjustments to the surface and silhouette, while still keeping the body present. The back-and-forth between hand and screen is a key design lesson, showing how technology can extend touch rather than replace it.
A Thoughtful Takeaway
Iris Van Herpen's exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum is a testament to the power of creativity and innovation in fashion. Her work challenges the boundaries of what is possible, pushing the limits of couture and design. Through her unique process and attention to detail, Van Herpen creates garments that are not just clothes, but works of art that explore the human experience and our connection to nature. This exhibition is a must-see for anyone interested in the future of fashion and the endless possibilities of design.
